Sunday 15 July 2012

Summer climbing so far

So far I have been sport climbing quite a lot and really enjoyed it. This spring and summer I have gotten substantially stronger compared to previous years. Still the rewards might not have been that great if I look at what grades I have achieved. That might come in due time. I don't really know much about how to train to get better at what I want to do. What I have noticed is that I have gotten much more stable at dispatching 7b+, 7c 7c+ in a few tries and some nice onsights.

I still have to break through the magic 7c onsight barrier (did a iffy 7c os). And manage to send my longtime 8a+ project in Ceuse. But knowing my progress curve I think it might happen in September. Right now I try and mix high volume climbing on long routes around 7bish with the odd RP project around 7c+.

I had a great day in Tournoux and dispatched a slightly different 8a or 7c+? Its a new route but compared to the other 7c+ I think it might be 8a and I liked the style. I climbed relaxed and tactically smart so it a cool feeling.

I have been on one trip to Tre Cime to get in the "mode" but also to try some of my projects in order to determine witch routes are worth investing time in. Its now time to step up the game and dispatch the projects. If luck, shape, partners and weather all fall in to place my Trilogy project  might be off the ground soon.

I have had some ups and downs as far as motivation or rather believing in my abilities this spring and summer. I have also lacked that key spark to have that extra burning desire but in the last weeks I have felt it all coming back. Climbing with Simon, Anders, Maria was great fun.


Looking for the first pro on the First pitch on Alpenliebe Cima Ovest 7c (600m)


The Tre Cime Towers...


Anders on the delicate crux pitch on Nobile 7c+ (350m)


Sun, clouds and towers. I love the light in Tre Cime

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